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Oct 14, 2024

Harbinger in Des Moines restaurant review: Everything you need to know

In 2018, Harbinger from five-time James Beard Foundation semifinalist for Best Chef Midwest Joe Tripp swooped on the Des Moines dining scene, taking over a corner space along charming Ingersoll Avenue

In 2018, Harbinger from five-time James Beard Foundation semifinalist for Best Chef Midwest Joe Tripp swooped on the Des Moines dining scene, taking over a corner space along charming Ingersoll Avenue in Des Moines.

This week, the vegetable-forward restaurant that leans into intricate Asian cooking techniques made national news: Along with 46 other restaurants, Harbinger was included in the 2024 USA TODAY Restaurants of the Year list.

How many have you been to?Check out USA TODAY's 2024 Restaurants of the Year.

Executive chef Ryan Skinner took over the kitchen from Tripp, who recently introduced Des Moines to his two newest restaurants: breakfast diner Little Brother in Windsor Heights in 2022 and in January, Basic Bird with Korean street food in the Beaverdale neighborhood of Des Moines.

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Skinner frequently connects with local farmers in Iowa for fruits, vegetables and proteins he uses on the farm-to-table menu. Once produce is out of season, he moves on to a new menu item, so it's common to see the menu change frequently. Skinner notes that he does not repeat a menu item, so if you missed the grilled sturgeon with butternut squash, you're out of luck.

Skinner joins Tripp on his yearly monthlong trips to southeastern Asia, tasting the food and discovering new-to-him ingredients that he tries to incorporate into his dishes. Skinner is careful not to say the food is authentic, but rather inspired by the flavors and cooking techniques.

The homey vibe of the restaurant feels cozy in the winter and inviting in the summer with its windows looking out on Ingersoll Avenue. Diners can watch the action in the open kitchen or sidle up to the bar, where the cocktails are as creative as the food. Request one of the three tables lining the windows or for a more convivial experience, ask to sit at the banquette.

The smartest approach at Harbinger is to order a few plates to share, then decide if you're still hungry and order a few more. The menu, confined to one page, is arranged with smaller bites at the top down to a few entrée-sized dishes and then steamed buns, a longtime favorite on the menu.

Steamed buns. These tender bites come stuffed with pork belly, sweet potato tempura or sweet-and-sour chicken, and can be ordered as singles or a trio. An order is a great way to start the meal.

Thai-style meatballs. An order of four meatballs sits in a pool of savory tamarind sauce with a giant slice of baguette that's toasted and helps you mop up every last morsel of sauce.

Farm carrots. A rendition of this Vietnamese-inspired dish has always been on the menu. This version came with a lemongrass sausage.

Heirloom beets. A salt crust and lemon thyme give each bite a different flavor combination, with crunchy pistachio and charred radicchio adding to the depth of the dish.

Okonomiyaki. This street food from Osaka, Japan, comes with a savory pancake topped with winter root vegetables and a soy-poached egg for the ultimate in umami.

Pork chop. Those who know me will heed my advice to always order the pork, a tidbit of advice that holds true for Harbinger as well. The tender gochujang-marinated pork comes with Korean pickled vegetables and kimchi.

Duck breast. Hoisin, Chinese mustard and Brussels sprouts add to the depth of this rillette of duck.

See the full menu.

One way to preview upcoming menus is to order the chef's tasting, an exploration of dishes the kitchen is working on at the time that may earn a slot on the regular menu. At publication, the rendition went for $125 for seven courses, with an optional $55 wine tasting.

Details: Harbinger, 2724 Ingersoll Ave., Des Moines; 515-244-1314, harbingerdsm.com

Susan Stapleton is the entertainment editor and dining reporter at The Des Moines Register. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram, or drop her a line at [email protected].